4C curls are the curliest of the curl types, according to the hair typing system. They’re tightly coiled, springy curls that, with the right products and hair care routine, can really turn heads.
Type 4C hair wasn’t even on the original hair-typing system created by Andre Walker (Oprah Winfrey’s hair stylist) in the ‘90s. But as the natural hair movement gained momentum online in the early 2000s, the curly community added 3C and 4C hair types to better represent their tighter ringlets and coils. So how can you tell if you’re a member of the 4C coily club?
What Is 4C Hair? (And How to Tell If That's You)
The unique 4C curl pattern is identified as tightly coiled, ranging from 2-4mm in diameter and are super springy. Not to be confused with the softer spirals of type 4A hair or the dense zig-zag locks of type 4B hair. 4C hair type is tightly packed together and has as much as 75% shrinkage from wet to dry. It’s also one of the most delicate hair types, with thin fragile strands prone to breaking and dryness. If this all sounds familiar, it’s essential to nail your 4C hair care routine to avoid unwanted breakage, and create locks you want to rock.
Why 4C Hair Needs Extra Moisture
When it comes to type 4C curls, think moisture, moisture and moisture. Your coils are more likely to suffer with dryness and low porosity, meaning it’s tricky to get the moisture to where it’s needed most – deep in the hair shaft. However, it’s a delicate balance as you don’t want to overload your hair with products that can cause build up and dullness. That’s where the famous 3-step LOC (or LCO) moisturising method comes into its own because it’s very effective at locking in moisture for those thirsty coils.
Building a Moisture-First Routine for 4C Curls
LOC stands for Liquid, Oil and Cream, and is the order you apply the products to help add moisture and seal it into your 4C hair. It’s the go-to layering technique:
L is for Liquid – the first step hydrates the hair. Apply leave-in conditioner or detangling spray to freshly washed hair that’s more on the damp side than still dripping wet. If your hair is easily weighed down use a lightweight product, but if your hair is denser then you can use a thicker leave-in product.
O is for Oil – this will lock in moisture and seal it into your hair strands. Apply a light layer of oil such as argan or coconut oil to seal and slow down moisture evaporation. Some 4C types prefer avocado, caster or jojoba oil, so you’ll need to experiment to find your oily-grail.
C is for Cream – the final step is to apply a creamy product to smooth the hair cuticle and prevent all that juicy moisture from escaping. Some 4C types use conditioner or hair butter, curling creams or natural shea butter. Again, a bit of trial and error will help identify your dream cream.
Hang on, what about LCO? Some 4C coils prefer cream before oil. It all depends on texture, length, porosity and personal preference. Whichever way round suits you though, stick with the routine as consistency is key for coils that thrive and shine.
Why Natural, Sulphate-Free Formulas Matter Most for 4C Hair
We’ve already established that 4C hair is delicate and prone to breakage, so it’s no surprise that it doesn’t like harsh ingredients. Things like sulphates can strip coils of that all-important moisture, and synthetic silicones can coat and weigh them down. Look for natural ingredients in your hair care products that will treat your strands with the TLC they deserve.
Faith In Nature's Picks for 4C Hair Care
Our Shea & Argan haircare range has been created specially for curly hair and a dry scalp. It’s packed with nature’s moisturising marvels, and free from harsh parabens, sulphates and silicones. This vegan range is blended with organic shea butter, renowned for its moisturising properties, and organic argan oil known to prevent breakage, seal in moisture, increase shine and reduce frizz. Try our Shea & Argan Shampoo, Shea & Argan Conditioner or our hydrating Shea & Argan Nourishing Hair Mask for a deep condition. Our Curly Hair Bundle (all 3 products) saves you money and is loved by our curly customers, who tell us “Love these products so good for my hair and doesn’t leave any residue” and another fan says “Great products! Perfect for coils (I have 4B-C hair).”
How Often Should You Wash 4C Hair?
As a general rule 4C hair is not made for daily washing. Those moisture-hungry coils are easily stripped of their natural oils. Every 7-14 days is probably ideal to strike the right balance between maintaining a healthy scalp, avoiding product build up and retaining moisture. If your hair is feeling dry, you might like to try a co-wash and skip the shampoo altogether. This method uses a specially formulated conditioner to cleanse your scalp, and is particularly popular among the type 4 hair community.
Detangling & Washing Without Breakage
One of the common conundrums with coily hair is how to wash and detangle while minimising hair breakage. The best technique is to wash it in sections, twisting each section when it’s wet so the shampoo can reach your scalp and then rinse out more easily. When it comes to detangling, the golden rule is to make sure you only attempt it when your hair is fully saturated with slip, like a conditioner, so your strands slide apart more easily. Then, using a wide-tooth comb or your fingers, gently tease the tangles apart in small sections at a time.
Drying 4C Hair the Right Way
What we love about 4C hair is how versatile it is. There are so many styles you can do with this hair type, from twists, locs and braids to a big, beautiful tension blow out. The main goal is to protect your fragile hair type from heat damage. After washing, use a microfibre towel or cotton t-shirt to gently squeeze out excess water, before applying your styling products. Letting your hair naturally air dry puts the least stress on it, but this might not suit your final hair goals.
If you want to use a hair dryer ensure it’s on a low-heat setting, hold the dryer further away from your hair and finish each section with a cold blast to close the cuticle. There’s also the overnight plopping method, which is great for frizz control. After applying a leave-in conditioner or styling foam to damp hair, flip your head forward into your laid out t-shirt, gently lowering your coils so they pile on top of each other. Then wrap your hair up with your t-shirt. Some people recommend leaving it on overnight, others prefer 30 minutes to help compress and set the coils.
Protective Styles for 4C Hair
Over-manipulating your 4C hair can lead to damage and compromised coils. Stick to low-manipulation, but high impact styles like box braids, twist-outs, flat twists, Bantu knots, cornrows and updos. The trick is to avoid braiding or re-twisting your hair every night, so protect your style by wearing a loose satin bonnet when you sleep. That innocent looking cotton pillowcase can suck the moisture from your hair and cause friction as you move. There’s a huge range of bonnets available online in every colour and pattern imaginable whether you’re rocking a shorter or longer style.
Common 4C Hair Mistakes to Avoid
4C hair is naturally versatile, able to hold an enviable range of shapes and styles, and is incredibly voluminous. Avoid these common mistakes and it’ll stay strong, springy and healthy.
- Avoid over-washing. This strips away your natural hair oils that keep your coils happy and hydrated.
- Steer clear of sulphates. Choose gentle, sulphate-free shampoos that cleanse without drying.
- Avoid too much heat. Use your hairdryer on a low-heat setting and hold it away from your hair.
- Protect your hair at night with a satin/silk pillowcase or protective bonnet to avoid friction, frizz and drying out.
- Don’t skip the trims. Regular trimming helps reduce breakage and keeps the ends of your hair healthy.
- Deep conditioning in non-negotiable. Use the LOC method to hydrate your coils and lock it in.
Your 4C Hair Care Checklist
4C coils are cause for celebration. Yes, they require specific care and attention, but once you’ve cracked the code and found a routine that works for your hair, you can embrace your unique curls and show off your style.
- Shampoo and cleanse every 1-2 weeks with gentle, natural products.
- Remember the LOC method – liquid, oil, cream.
- Use a deep conditioning treatment at least once a week with a rich, hydrating formula.
- Detangle gently and only when your hair is slathered in conditioner.
- Master protective styles like twists, Bantu knots and updos. Just not too tight.
- Turn down the heat styling and use heat-protecting products before drying.
- Preserve all your hard work with a satin bonnet or pillowcase.
