How to Use Coconut Oil for Hair: Benefits, Methods & Tips

Why Coconut Oil Is Good for Your Hair

There’s a good reason (or five) that the topic ‘coconut oil for hair’ has amassed over 900 million views on TikTok alone. The hacks, videos and debates span DIY masks to spilt-end tutorials, hair-oiling to dandruff control. Some love it, some not so much. We’re firmly in the love camp, so we’re uncovering the science behind its superpowers, and the best ways to use it for gorgeous, glossy locks.

The secret of its success starts with the high concentration of lauric acid - approximately 50% - compared to say, castor oil at 3%. This medium-chain fatty acid gives coconut oil a long, straight structure allowing it to penetrate the hair shaft to provide deep hydration for thirsty strands. And because it’s so compatible with your hair structure it’s able to bond with your hair’s own protein, aka keratin, and help reduce protein loss. This study showed that by boosting the protein in your hair, coconut oil helps prevent breakage and split ends.

What Type of Coconut Oil Should You Use?

Not all coconut oil is made equal. So it’s worth brushing up on the different terms and what they mean before you raid your kitchen cupboards. For most, but not all hair types, unrefined - also known as virgin/extra virgin/raw - coconut oil is the best choice as it contains the highest levels of those protective fatty acids. This is the kind of coconut oil you’ll see sold in jars as a solid, glossy white fat, even at room temperature. It needs to be at least 25°C before it melts into a clear liquid.

However, for those with fine or low-porosity hair, this type of coconut oil could be too much, weighing down your hair or making it look greasy. If this is you, ‘fractionated coconut oil’ is your friend. Usually marketed on the label as a coconut oil that stays liquid, even in the fridge, it provides lightweight moisture, reduces frizz and adds shine without being too heavy. As with any type of hair oil though, start with a little bit first. You can always apply more.

Is Coconut Oil Right for Your Hair Type?

In general, coconut oil could benefit all hair types, but it’s made a name for itself for thick, curly, coily, dry, damaged or frizzy hair. Also for high-porosity hair that absorbs and loses moisture quickly. Coconut oil’s rich moisturising properties offer a two-pronged ‘protect and penetrate’ action that’s ideal for all these hair types. As mentioned above, coconut oil is an expert at delivering deep down moisturisation into the hair shaft, helping to restore dry and damaged hair. It also acts as a natural ‘serum’ to smooth and seal your hair cuticles in the fight against frizz, as well as protect against moisture loss. If frizzy hair is your nemesis, keep reading for the most effective frizz-taming techniques.

A word of caution here for colour-treated hair. Coconut oil is thought to be generally safe, but because it penetrates the structure of the hair shaft, applying it immediately before your salon appointment, or at-home colouring session, may create a barrier that prevents the colour pigments from adhering evenly. Some experts say it’s better to clarify your hair with shampoo before using a colour to remove any hair-oil build up. Check with your salon colourist what they recommend for your specific hair type.

Whether you’re a coconut connoisseur or just coconut curious, there are many different ways to use coconut oil in your hair care routine. Here are some of the most common methods to try (and some not to try) for healthy, luscious looking locks.

How to Use Coconut Oil as a Pre-Shampoo Treatment

First the science bit to understand how coconut oil works as a pre-shampoo treatment. Your hair is at its most vulnerable when wet. It’s more prone to damage when it absorbs water, because the central cortex inside each hair shaft swells up, causing the outer scales to be pushed outward and raised up. This makes wet hair much easier to damage when brushing or styling. Coconut oil to the rescue!

The amount you apply depends on the length and thickness of your hair. Always warm the coconut oil in your palms first so it’s an even liquid consistency. Apply it to dry hair from mid-lengths to the ends. Leave on for 30-60 mins allowing the oil to be absorbed. Before you step into the shower, apply shampoo directly on your hair lengths (it won’t foam up) to help breakdown excess oil. Then rinse it out in the shower and shampoo again to cleanse your scalp thoroughly.

Using coconut oil as a pre-shampoo treatment could help reduce ‘hygral fatigue’. This is caused by repeated swelling (when wet) and shrinking (when dry) leading to weakening of the hair shaft, and eventual breakage, frizz and loss of elasticity.    

How to Use Coconut Oil as a Deep Conditioning Hair Mask

The majority of hair types could probably benefit from more moisture and reduced protein loss. That said, coconut oil hair masks are a particular favourite among people with curly hair. If you’ve got this hair type, you’ll know it’s tricky keeping those juicy curls hydrated owing to the fact your natural oils don’t travel down the hair shaft as easily as straight hair. But a deep conditioning coconut oil hair mask once a week could give your thirsty locks the moisture-boost they’re craving. The same goes for dry, damaged or colour-treated hair. Here’s how:

1. Place a towel round your neck to protect your clothes. Top tip: don’t wear your best clothes.

2. Use a spray bottle to dampen your hair.

3. Using 2 tablespoons of melted coconut oil – organic virgin oil is best if you can find it – apply the coconut oil evenly over your hair. Parting it into sections can help. Focus on the driest parts of your hair, like the ends, and less on the healthier parts of your hair, typically near the scalp.

4. Once you’re happy your hair is coated, pop on a shower cap.

5. Allow the hair mask to work its magic for 1-2 hours. Some people like to leave it on overnight, but coconut oil penetrates the hair shaft relatively quickly, so leaving it on for longer may not necessarily lead to better results.

6. When you’re ready to wash it out, apply shampoo to your hair before you get it wet. This allows the shampoo to break down the excess oil so you’re able to rinse it out without any leftover residue. Follow with a shampoo, conditioner, and style as normal.

If you have fine or thin hair, it’s best to only do this every 2-3 weeks, focussing mainly on the ends to avoid overloading your hair. You could find that coconut oil hair masks are not for you, so it’s worth experimenting.

Using Coconut Oil for Scalp Health

The lauric acid in coconut oil is known to have antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. All the good ‘antis’. This 2021 study showed coconut oil helps maintain a healthy scalp by balancing the skin’s microbiome, essential to fending off flakes, and treating concerns like dandruff and dry scalp. For a soothing, nourishing scalp treatment, apply a small amount to your fingertips to warm it up, then gently massage directly on to your scalp using the pads of your fingertips, never your nails. Leave on for 15-20 mins before washing off thoroughly.

It’s worth noting that coconut oil is high on the comedogenic scale, meaning it blocks pores, so avoid leaving it on your scalp for long periods as it might upset healthy hair follicles.

Coconut Oil as a Leave-In Styler or Frizz Tamer

All it takes is one humid summer day and before you know it, you’re faced with frizz every time you look in the mirror. A small pea-sized amount of coconut oil applied to your ends (damp or dry) can help tame frizz, add shine and smooth flyaways. Less is definitely more when using this technique, to avoid weighing down your hair. Thick or curly hair types might find this technique especially effective.

Pairing Coconut Oil with Natural Haircare Products

Because coconut oil is 100% natural, it’s slips seamlessly into a natural and organic haircare routine - one without sulphates or silicones that would undermine all that good work. Our coconut haircare products use certified organic coconut oil, making them the perfect partner to your oil-based routine. However, if you haven’t got the time and energy in your life for hair-oil rituals, our Coconut Shampoo, Coconut Conditioner and Coconut & Shea Butter Hydrating Hair Mask, are an easy way to reap the rewards of this haircare hero.

This collection, and all our hair products, contain no silicones, parabens, SLS or SLES, and are vegan and cruelty-free. Our liquid coconut products are 99.5% natural origin and expertly formulated with our base blend of organic active naturals, chosen for their known benefits to hair and scalp.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Using Coconut Oil on Hair

While coconut oil is one of nature’s miraculous multi-taskers, it’s by no means fool-proof. Avoid these six common pitfalls to get the best out of this tropical elixir:

1. Don’t apply too much. Start with small amounts, especially on dry hair. You can always add a little more.

2. Leaving it on overnight as a hair mask treatment doesn’t necessarily increase the benefits. It could even cause issues like blocked pores and greasy build-up. 1-2 hours is sufficient for coconut oil to get to work.

3. Don’t skip a thorough cleanse to remove the oil from your hair. Remember to apply shampoo before you wet your hair.

4. Take care to cleanse around your hairline as build-up here can cause clogged pores and spots.

5. Don’t be tempted to apply it to your roots if they’re already oily.

6. Finally, your hair type might not actually like coconut oil. Sorry. Fine or low-porosity hair can end up stiff and brittle, not softer and shinier.

How Often Should You Use Coconut Oil on Your Hair?

Given the multitude of marvels coconut oil is capable of, it would be tempting to slather it on several times a week. But because it’s a heavy, penetrating oil, applying it too often or in large quantities can lead to build-up, protein overload or even brittleness. Avoid unwanted side-affects by following this simple guide:

Thick, curly or coily hair – hair mask treatment once a week; frizz-taming with a pea-sized drop 2 to 3 times a week.

Fine or straight hair – less is more for you. Hair mask treatment once a month; smoothing fly-aways once a week. Fine hair type is very easily weighed down, so it may not suit you at all. Worth experimenting.

Damaged or coloured hair – hair mask treatment 1-2 times a week to restore moisture. Or as an occasional pre-shampoo treatment for 30-60 mins before washing out.

Ultimately, coconut oil has earned its righteous reputation in the haircare world. Far from being a modern social media sensation though, its use dates back thousands of years before the words lauric acid were even invented. As with any DIY self-care product, make sure to do a patch test first, and apply it to suit your particular hair type. Assess how your hair looks and feels, and remember, if it doesn’t seem right for your hair, you can always use it for skincare, cooking, cleaning, and a range of household chores.